DIY Secret Fit Belly Panel: A Tutorial

I know everyone has different preferences with regard to waists on maternity pants, shorts and skirts. I personally like the ones with a stretchy panel that covers your entire belly, I find the low, stretchy band really uncomfortable.

I decided these couldn't be that hard to make, given the right materials, and I had been wanting to make a few maternity things. One maxi skirt and one pair of lace shorts later, I think I've got it!

You need: *1/2 yard (or a little more depending on your size) of "Poly Interlock." I got mine at Hancock's, Joann's probably has it too. Mine is neude, sorry it blends in a bit with the carpet!

*A garment that you made or are repurposing

*A maternity garment to use as a template (although it wouldn't be too hard to just look at these pictures and take a few measurements on your own body, just remember the belly panel needs to fit snugly to keep your pants on comfortably)

*Sewing machine, matching thread, etc...

1) Lay your piece of poly interlock on a flat surface, fold it so that the grain runs up and down and you have two layers with a fold on one side. Now fold your templace garment in half as shown, that puts your seam in the back and a fold in the front (matching the fold of the poly interlock). Using the existing belly panel as a template, cut around the top and back, then along the curve of the bottom, leaving room for seam and hem allowance on all sides (don't cut the fold!).

2) Now that you have your pattern piece cut out, fold right sides together and sew along the back. Be sure to set your machine to a stretch or zig zag stitch, it's also helpful to use a stretch needle and increase your stitch length to about 3.0. Turn right sides out, fold the raw edges to one side and topstitch. It looks more professional and adds a little durability!

3) Now, hem the top edge of the belly panel. Remember the curved edge fits under your belly, the top edge is straight. There's no use trying to iron and pin this stuff, it's so slinky. Just turn under about 1/4", then another 3/4" or so as you sew. This seam is against the grain (the stretchiest part of this type of fabric) so it's essential to keep using a stretch stitch or the seam will just break when you try to pull it over your belly.

4) Be sure that whatever garment you will be fitting with the belly panel is prepared: lower (under belly) in the front and with finished raw edges. My garment had a lining so I basted the two layers together and finished with a zig zag stitch since I don't have a serger. This fabric doesn't have to be stretchy.

5) Obviously the stretchy panel is a good deal smaller than the non-stretchy garment, so we will need to quarter pin. With right sides together, find center back and match that to the center back of the panel, pin. Next find center front of garment and center front of panel and match those, pin. Do the same on each side. Now, you should be able to see that the slack in your non-stretchy garment is pretty evenly distributed, if not, fix it. You can either continue to pin, using the same method of 'matching centers' or go ahead to the sewing machine.

6) As you sew these two pieces together, you will need to stretch the poly interlock to the width of your garment. The first picture below shows the poly 'unstretched' and the second picture shows the way you should stretch it as you sew. USE A STRETCH STITCH and match the raw edges.

7) Last step! Fold the raw edges toward the belly panel, and topstitch (still using a stretch stitch) and stretching the poly as needed.

Sorry this photo is weird, I was trying to take a picture of myself and it was not particularly successful... I am really looking pregnant... Still, you can see that the fit is nice and smooth and it's really comfortable. I think the neude will be invisible under shirts. I'll add a photo of that when I can get somebody to take one!

Easy Tunic Style Top Tutorial

I cannot stand to wear maternity clothes that look like all I've done is draped a tent over myself, you'd be surprised how many things look like this, especially dresses. I need some summery tops so I decided to create a simple pattern and make one. I used this beautiful, sheer, navy and white polka dot cotton/poly knit that I picked up on the Hancock's discount table several months ago ($1/yd, score!!)

Here's a snapshot of me wearing my version (without the belt, which I'm adding in this tutorial). It's cropped like that because I entered it in Made by Rae's Spring Top Week competition.




I love how it turned out, it's super easy and comfy and there are so many ways you can vary or alter the pattern to fit your body and your style.

Here's what you need: 
1) 1-2 Yards of fabric (I used something with a little stretch to accomodate the baby bump, but it would also be really pretty in a silky fabric or nice cotton)

2) Matching thread

3) measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine, etc...

How to:
1) First cut 1 rectangle:
    width=across shoulders from sleeve to sleeve plus hem
              allowance
    length=shoulder to bottom of shirt plus hem (cut on fold)

The shape of this shirt is basically a rectangle, folded in half with an opening for your head (then sewn up on the sides of course). Hold your arms straight out to your sides (like you are about to do arm circles, remember elementary school PE?) and measure from elbow to elbow across your shoulders and upper arms. If you want shorter sleeves like mine, just measure in the same way but starting and stopping where you want the sleeves to hit. Take this measurement and add 2 inches. For the length, measure from your shoulder to just below your hip (or desired length) and add 1 inch (we're going to cut on the fold so this measurement is actually half the total length of your rectangle). I did this measurement on my front so I could add in a little bust and belly room.

(At this point, I went to the ironing board and pressed all edges under 1/2" then another 1/2" and hemmed the rectangle all the way around. I didn't do anything fancy for the corners.)

2) Now we are going to cut out the neckline hole and make bias tape to finish the edge. Grab a shirt to use as a guide. I like a v-neck, but boat neck or round neck or whatever would also look good.

Start with the gentle curve of the back neckline, cut through both layers, then adjust the front until you have what you want.

Next, cut a strip of fabric (about 1 3/4" wide, I was using a 1" bias tape maker) long enough to line the edge of the neck opening. I did not cut my strip on the bias, it's up to you. Make your bias tape, then start pinning it in place, sandwiching it around the raw neck edge. I sewed the strip together at the center of the 'V' with a straight seam so I could hide it. Now, sew the bias tape to the shirt.

To form a nice 'V', pinch the bias tape with right sides together and sew along the crease, creating a little 'wedge.'

Beautiful!!

3) Now for the fit! Stand in front of a mirror (bring some pins!), put the shirt over your head and be sure the bottom edges match up perfectly (center the fold at the top of your shoulder). Matching side seams as you go, start at a comfortable spot under your arm and pin down the sides in a straight line. Pin close enough to your body to give you a flattering fit but with enough slack to get the top on and off easily. Use another pin to mark where you want the belt to go--it could be around your ribs if you're preggers or at the natural waist if you aren't. You can see in the picture below the outside line of pins is going to become my side seam and the inside yellow pin is where I want the belt.

Before you start sewing, measure to be sure left and right seams are in the same position and that the side edges are perfectly matched, then just sew in a straight line from the underarm to the hem on the right side of shirt-forward and backstitching securely. Repeat on the other side. Try on your shirt before going any further, make adjustments if needed and double check your belt position (measure and mark belt position on each side, right on the side seam).

4) For the belt, we're going to make buttonholes right on the side seams, that way the belt can be cinched in around your middle but leave the side ruffles 'ruffly.' Mine are 1 1/4" long, (about 25 mm on my machine). I did not reinforce the fabric with interfacing, if you use a really delicate fabric, make the holes just inside the side seam and use a small piece of interfacing (it will be completely hidden that way).

5) This is the last step! The Belt!! Cut a strip of fabric: Length= your waist (x2) and Width=3 1/2" Take the strip to the ironing board. Press the short ends under 1/2" and press one long edge under 1/2". Next fold the raw edge over about 1" and press, then match long pressed edges and press again. Now just sew along the ends and down the long, open side.  (ignore my horribly stained ironing board cover, clearly that should be my next project! :)

 That's it! Tie in the back or on the side, or wear without a belt. The buttonholes don't show at all if you do them in a matching color. This top was so easy, it was an hour project at most. I love something you can completely finish during one nap time...or one episode of Sesame Street. I will be making this again!

If you make this, I'd love to see comments or pictures (add them to the "You Sewed!" Flickr pool, click the tab at the top right of my homepage).

My Skirt Secret

So now that I'm about 17 weeks pregnant (Surprise! If you didn't know it already!) I've been on the hunt for a few new maternity things. I was teaching when pregnant with P, so I have more than I need of basic things like black pants, khakhis, plain t's, and all that. What I don't have is pretty, cool, casual everyday wear.

I saw/stalked an adorable pregnant girl at the dr's office wearing a long, flowy maxi skirt with a fitted black tank--super cute combo over a baby bump--and instantly decided that I needed that skirt as soon as humanly possible. I suspected the brand name of the one she was wearing and knew it might be exorbitantly expensive so before springing for that one, I hunted around for something comparable.

Two skirts, one cost $22 and one $99. Which do you think is the expensive one?

Ok, I'll tell you. The first skirt is Pea in the Pod and it cost $99 (if you know Pea in the Pod, $99 is actually on the lower end for them). The second is from Forever 21 for $22 (Holla!). There are some differences BUT are they $77 dollars worth of differences?! Obviously the Pea in the Pod skirt has better quality materials and I think the print is a little more chic and mod. I have to say though that the Forever 21 skirt is more comfortable, it has that wide shirred waist band which is perfect for the bump and it's actually a better length for me. I wish someone were here to photograph them on me, I think you would be more impressed with the Forever 21 version (the paisley looks a little more "BAM" in the photo than it does in real life).

So  my little skirt secret is that I'm keeping the cheap one. If this weren't maternity garb and I were looking at several seasons worth of investment, I might go with the more expensive version because I do like the print and colors best. But...for one summer of wear and since the style and feel are almost identical--I'm going with the cheaper version and treating myself to approximately 77 Strawberry Limeades from Sonic.

I've got a few maternity-wear tutorials in mind, the easiest shirt ever that would also be cute on a non-preggo gal and a pair of lace shorts (AHHH!). I've been so sad seeing all these adorable shorts everywhere that I can't sport this year, so dang it, I'm going to make some. Then I can sport some shorts too... :)